• Text  Dean Mayo Davies
  • 25th June 2013

Weird, science

Setting his show to an instrumental of Motörhead’s Ace of Spades was always going to thrill. And this season Calvin Klein Collection’s Italo Zucchelli harnessed the energy of what makes his menswear so satisfying.

Yes, he does sci-fi impossible fabrics like no other, resulting in the convincing and covetable. But he’s remarkable too when creating new, warped versions of iconic codes.

In the past this has included triple-denim (Klein was arguably the most synonymous with designer jeans after all) and grey marl crop tops. Today we got second skin bikers – sans sleeves – in baby blue alligator, utility ticker stripes and perhaps best of all, Zucchelli’s version of a harrington. It’s a fan letter in cloth when you learn how the designer grew up fixed with music and British style culture.