Burberry FW24: Amy Winehouse, rainy days and Agyness Deyn
By Alex James Taylor | Fashion | 20 February 2024

Since joining the heritage house, Daniel Lee has drawn a vision of Burberry Britishness that celebrates all things wacky, quacky and wonderful. This season, inside a giant black festival tent in East London’s Victoria Park, Lee span our minds back a couple of decades: an Amy Winehouse medley echoed through the tent and Rochdale’s finest Agyness Deyn opened the show in a slate grey trench. For some of us (ie. this writer), it conjured a time of adolescent abandonment we reminisce about way too often.

Prior to the show, three teasers appeared on Burberry’s Instagram splicing visuals of British parks, goal posts and horses – enduring references in Lee’s vision for the house, the designer plays between the lines, finding new twists on classic tropes. This season, according to the show notes, was “inspired by the landscapes and people of the UK and Ireland.”

No rolled-up sleeves and skull t-shirts here, Amy, instead it was furry woollen duffle coats, sheer knits, extended leather biker jackets, and trousers with zips down the front – a bit Westwood, a bit like a posh version of classic adidas poppers. The majority of the collection was cast in military greens, olives and browns, evoking an outdoorsy vibe Lee emphasises. And then came Lily Cole in an oversized red check scarf, rain coat and thigh-high leather boots – in other words, ideal gear for a night out up North – Gene Gallagher with a scarf wrapped around his head (very Queen Elizabeth, and also very TikTok lad), leather hoodie and donkey jacket, Edie Campbell with the same red check scarf fading in and out of a slinky black look, and Naomi Campbell in a textured dress that echoed the grass matting underfoot. Prepared for sudden downfalls, models held check umbrellas in hand, wore their collars high, scarfs supersized and linings fleeced. Ivy by Perfumer H wafted through the air, with notes of brambles, ivy leaf and red berry transporting us to autumn English gardens.

The Burberry front row is always a glorious mix of British talent, and this season excelled, with the likes of Olivia Colman, Skepta, Sue Webster, Little Simz, Bukayo Saka, Dizzee Rascal, Barry Keoghan, Jonathan Bailey and Gareth Bale all mingling. And this is the joy of Lee’s Burberry, celebrating the diverse faces that wear the brand, from Oscar winners to Champions League winners to your chic auntie Jane – Lee designs with them all in mind.

GALLERYCatwalk images from Burberry WOMENS-FALL-WINTER-24