• Text Jake Hall
  • 18th January 2020

Future classic

Throughout his fashion career, Antwerp graduate Kris Van Assche has always paid homage to the heritage of the houses he’s led. His FW20 collection for Berluti, an established luxury leather brand under the LVMH umbrella, continues this trend: by revamping tried-and-tested tailoring in new, bold colourways and turning the brand’s patina leather into a sharp suit for the first time, Van Assche empowers the house codes with his own progressive verve.

Paris’ Opera Garnier served as the opulent backdrop for the show, which sought to blur the lines between casual and formal. The opening look set the tone: a loose-fitting cerulean suit, worn over a crimson roll-neck and finished with a leather bag and a pair of trainers in a similar colourway. These pops of colour kept coming; whether acid green or cobalt blue, Van Assche kept his palette playful. Cuts were generally loose and slouchy, adding a relaxed dimenson to effortlessly cool houndstooth suits and belted, high-waisted trousers.

This was all part of a wider project to define the “new Berluti man” – a task which Van Assche is arguably perfect for, given his past experience of injecting new energy into houses like Dior. If the trainers, multiple leather bags and loose tailoring are any indication, this man is constantly on the move – which, in 2020 in particular, feels relevant to all of us.