Curation and edit are key for SS14.

21st June, 2013
Text  Declan Higgins    

Declan Higgins: What was the inspirations behind the collection?
Amber Siegel: This season we’re wanting to try and look at something which looks traditionally masculine and has that kind of denoted adventure. We were looking at aviation but more specifically a kind of south-pacific-nostalgic referencing of aviation so a lot of military cuts, but then in a playful typically ‘us’ tactile way with our fabrications. A lot of perforated suedes, raw silks, brushed cottons, but we wanted it to have that feeling of venture and exposition.

DH: If you had the describe the collection three words?
AS: Tactile, fresh and adventurous.

DH: Would you say this was your most adventurous collection then?
AS: No, I think it is one of our most curated and our most edited, I think it is one of the most refined in terms of our use of pallet and colour.
Wouter Baartmans: Yeah, it all comes together. Because before we were really great at outerwear and building a story with a lot of different materials but now we’ve made it more concise by using a smaller pallet of material.

DH: Who would you most like to see wearing your clothes?
AS: Willem Dafoe, Adrien Brody, Ralph Fiennes. With Ralph we were kind of really looking at him specifically in The English Patient
WB: And that’s how the collection started.
AS: We were looking at that type of character and in a modern setting someone who has that sort of duality of fragile and heroism. He tends to have a lot of different facets to himself as an actor and him as a character, whatever character he takes on. So, we were kind of looking at that kind of grounding and that masculinity, and trying to reinvent that in a really accessible way, looking at the fragility between soft edge/hard edge.

DH: Is Baartmans & Siegel a constant evolution or do you restart every season?
AS: Bit of both I think.
WB: I think its now becoming more an evolution. We go back to patterns we have used before and we want to refine our style more. It took a few seasons to get to know our style and to know where we are heading but now we know that it’s going to be more refined in our simple silhouette.

DH: How would you like people to look at this collection?
AS: I think for us we really want it to show a sense of curation, a sense of very conscious editing and also a something that is an interesting seedling for expanding in the future, showing our potential for a lot of great challenging new collections.