Though the popular image of Alexander McQueen is of the brand’s outrageous and revolutionary shows of the 1990s, its menswear line has always been a more subtle and refined affair. The brand’s SS24 collection is no different. An exploration of “refined simplicity”, the collection is made up of mostly traditional silhouettes. 18 of the 31 looks featured a double-breast and all displayed bespoke tailoring, a nod to the early life of McQueen himself who cut his teeth among the tape measures and pin cushions of Savile Row.

A standout of the collection are the rounded shoulder wool jackets, their cinched waistline accentuating the curves, creating a top-heavy silhouette crafted with a contemporary formality. Elsewhere, sharp utilitarian looks, from dropped shoulder shirts rendered in garish pink to belted and chained military-style black wool jumpsuits, supply a clean, unfussy simplicity that really lets their construction shine. Of course, it is impossible to ignore the collection’s final look, the grand cape decorated with an abstract gold and black print developed by long-time McQueen collaborator, Simon Ungless.