Since A-Cold-Wall* burst onto the scene five years ago, Samuel Ross has consistently delivered his vision of aberrant streetwear. A label that “revels in the confidence and dynamism of youth,” as the show notes so deftly put it, this season’s offering signalled a maturation of sorts. As London was left behind in favour of Milan, the A-Cold-Wall* guy was set to signal that he’s all grown up.
“A working man at the heart of his community,” was the sentiment that underpinned this collection. Ross’ signature streetwear codes were still present in the form of drawstring finishes or track pants that tapered at the leg, but more classical forms of menswear dominated the range. The Earth served as his main reference point, as oceanic cerulean and teal were juxtaposed by pieces in soil-like shades. A blurred camouflage print also made its way onto functional longline jackets and cocoon coats — a more palatable rendition of a pattern so often seen across streetwear.
In regard to silhouettes, Ross is known for contorting traditional shapes as he sees fit. Knitted garments looked as if they were mid-metamorphosis, as jumpers extended into scarves or trailed into fringing. Elsewhere, gilets etched with contour lines were made even more structural, while double-breasted two-piece suits ended in fluid wide-leg trousers. This display at the Palazzo Del Ghiaccio was the debut of A-Cold-Wall*’s more refined aesthetic — and Ross made the process look like light work.
GALLERYCatwalk images from A-Cold-Wall* FW20