Top image: Still from Star Wars Episode IV A New Hope © 1977 Fox / Disney 

Bobby Abley’s use of Disney iconography has anchored his collections firmly in the LC:M schedule, pushing playful interpretations out into tailored and laid-back shapes, often centred around clean-cut athleticism. It’s a continuous cycle of anticipation: wondering what story he will reignite next. For SS16, the designer tells us he’s looking

Bobby Abley SS16

“Usually one of the first things I think about is what I would like to wear based on a theme, idea or story,” Bobby explains. “From that I will think of my fantasy wardrobe, I guess, and then start to refine things as I go.

I can definitely say that with any collection I always somehow pull things from my past or childhood. I grew up in a small town so I guess it comes from a place of not having the resources to express myself creatively as much as or how I wanted to as a child. It was like I was always searching for an alternative existence. So I do it now how I want to with my collections. And I’m constantly thinking about the future. I think it’s important to be one step ahead. I think the result of each collection I design is the mix of referencing my past and thinking about the future.

“Last season I showed in New York and it was amazing. It was actually the first time I have presented a collection overseas so I felt a lot more anxious than I usually do, but Milk Studios offered me a space so I wanted to try something new. The reaction was almost a bit overwhelming for me because I thought no one would give a shit that I was there or knows who I was but it was great. New York was the first bit of inspiration for FW15, from when I was there in the summer so it was nice to show that particular season there. I would definitely do something there again, and working with Milk is really nice, but London is my home and there’s nothing better than showing your latest work in your city. 

I never start with a Disney reference for a collection. I don’t think “I’m going to do a collection on that Disney movie,” my ideas always come from much more random things or thoughts and then things fall into place. So if Disney does come into it I will meet with them and tell them my thoughts and plans on how I will interpret their characters etc. and they will either say yes or no. They might have suggestions or marketing ideas for me but they are quite happy to leave the designing to me.

In terms of my show I’m really excited about my bags that I spent a lot of time developing for this season. And rest… I can’t wait to rest. Zzzzzzz.”

Bobby Abley shows his SS16 collection tomorrow, Monday 15th June.  Stay tuned to HERO for full fashion week coverage, from London, Florence, Milan and Paris.