Photography by Ib Kamara
Feben’s immensely textured creations are as fearless as they are wild. Engaging the lumps and bumps of the body in acidic colour combinations and creating their own shapes through wave-woven shorts, twisted mesh tops and bewitching ruffled bell sleeves, the London-based Central Saint Martins MA alum, who studied under the prestigious Isabella Blow scholarship, has constructed her own visual language based on feeling and memory since bursting onto the scene in the throws of the pandemic.
Born in North Korea and raised in Sweden by her Ethiopian mother, recent months have seen the designer collaborate on detailed capsule collections with both Browns and Weekday, splicing printed fabrics into beautiful slashed skirts and rouched party dresses that capture the fleeting thrills of a teenage shopping trip, or boiling and twisting colourful tie-dyes into puffy shibori dresses, concealing the wearer in a lavish cloud of controlled chaos.
And though these threads of Feben’s artistry have kept us satiated in recent months, the designer’s forthcoming SS23 runway at this month’s London Fashion Week promises us even more tactile splendour to fawn over. From accessories developed alongside Ghanian artisans to signature shapes and styles reimagined, below Feben gives us an exclusive preview of her upcoming collection alongside a teaser image showing some intricate weaving techniques and mixed materials – here’s the insider info…
Feben’s reference image
What have you been up to these last few months?
“I’ve been working on multiple collections, I’ve made a capsule with Browns and just launched a collaboration with Weekday, however the main focus has been working towards the new SS23 collection, which will be shown during London Fashion Week and will be my first runway show.”
Is there one prominent story or narrative that ties this collection together?
“My work is a reflection of my identity and story; I guess it’s a reflection of what I’m going through at times. I think I’ve grown as a person and therefore my way of thinking has evolved, which has opened me up to a different world I’ve always found quite intriguing: spirituality.”
What can you tell us about some of the exciting accessories you’ve been working on?
“Our investment in collaborating with artisans in Ghana is something you’ll see back in the SS23 collection. It’s an ongoing collaboration that was established during my MA in 2020. New bags and styling pieces will be featured in this collection, which I’m excited to show. “
What do you think makes this season different from all that have come before?
“There is a development in my techniques that I’ve been working on, but it’s very important for me to remind you of my signature techniques, such as the twist, which I will continue to use as part of my collections. It’s also quite exciting that this will be our debut runway show, which will showcase a lot of new silhouettes and designs mixed in with new and already existing techniques.”
Feben SS23 will show at LFW on September 17th – stay tuned for our full LFW coverage.