• Text Tempe Nakiska
  • 22nd June 2014

Cuban myth

A luxified air of mythology shrouded the room last night as Versace’s Apollo strode into our consciousness. Apollo, that is, if he had carried a cigar not a silver bow and cruised in a Cadillac not a chariot.

In true Versace form, this season’s hybrid man took no time in declaring himself to us. Boom! Look one: head to toe chalk pink, as colour-bold as the streets of Havana. Boom! Look two: full Cuban silhouetted trousers, vest gathered with gold detail at the shoulder. And as we progressed, the city’s graffiti even inspired a vivid print and jacquard.

It wouldn’t be a Versace show without shock-value, yet after last season’s chapped up cowboys you wouldn’t be chastised for wondering where Donatella Versace could possibly rise to next. Buttocks may be hard to beat, but give the designer a challenge and she’ll rise to it. Just throw in a slew of tanned bods, baroque-printed hot pants and toga drapery and you’ve got yourself a case of class Versace dra-masculinity.

There was also a sharpness here, heightened by the collection’s slickly tailored foundations. Gold Medusa buttons set off the crispness of double breasted jackets and pendants swung between strong shoulders.

After all, it’s this creativity-wearability balance that Versace does so well, this collection a new chapter in the house’s ever expanding vocabulary.