• Text Fabien Kruszelnicki
  • Photography Harry Carr
  • 11th January 2014

Free and wild

Motorbikes and cowboys heralded the continuing return of classic Versace for its FW14 show this season.

Although with a subtle sprinkling of Miami, it was the Midwest which dominated. Cuban heals strutted the sidewalk, cowboy-tassled blanket coats sheltered alloy wheeled print silk shirts, and Swarovski crystal embellished leather jackets added showmanship and flamboyant expression.

This new archetypal man has a slightly slimmer build than early Versace, but still with the buff toned body of a 2014 homoerotic god.

The talk of the evening was the striding models wearing crochless chap-like jeans exposing tight printed briefs underneath. The collection had the gusto of a younger generation free and wild, confident and knowing what they want in life and sex. Donatella Versace was keen to show the importance of self expression in times when liberty is being tested in so many countries around the world.

The added embellishment of Texas ranger star-shaped badges suggested a hint of authority in ones own decisions, while handkerchiefs hanging out the back of pockets accelerated ideas of a confident promiscuous excitement in youth.

A freshened up collection, built on a long standing appreciation of the brand’s history and what it does best.