• Text Tempe Nakiska
  • 26th June 2014

Think free

With every collection, Pierpaolo Piccioli and Maria Grazia Chiuri’s Valentino man seems to emerge freer than ever before. And yes, it happened again yesterday, stepping it up further with a collection just as unconstrained as it was sound.

This season it was about the free thinker, who the show notes described as the “individuals who stand outside movements, groups and schools; artists for whom innovation is an authentic, spontaneous gesture rather than a pose. They elicit an effortless masculinity, but also a subtle taste for silent sedition.”

It’s that subtlety/strength parallel that continues to push the Valentino man forward as more contemporary than many of his peers, helped by constructions that often appear more effortless than they really are. Take for example the butterfly and peacock appliques that ran across a series of khaki and rust toned jackets. Bold from afar (and that’s the point) but the detail close up is what really makes it.