• Text Lewis Firth
  • 28th January 2015

Sea break

#BOSPHORUS was printed onto the invite on one side; the other had a black silhouette of a man fishing. The former is a strait that divides the tip of Eastern Asia with Europe and has always been a vital, historical route for strategic, economic and trade purposes.

Presenting a strong narrative has, historically for Umit Benan, allowed him to convey a clean-cut story of his sources of inspiration into well-executed, commercial product. The venue created an atmosphere: fish-like shapes taped onto the floor, while screens surrounding the runway and seating areas projected the sea, rocks and a pier, with gulls flying above.

“A man at sea” was today’s focus, merging Western silhouettes with very slight, Eastern nuances, particularly in knitwear. Patterns came in vertical strips, like overlapping waves of colour – in a bottle green, white and beige. They were prime pieces. While sky blue and burgundy leather joggers helped to lift the tailored long coat and striking knits. 

All models were rough and rugged – burly men. Spanish actor Jordi Mollà, one of Benan’s idols, closed the show in a two-piece herringbone suit, which stood out among the colourful plaid suits that came before him. An A-grade lesson in how to make the sea’s volatility covetable.