• Text  Dean Mayo Davies
  • 1st July 2013

Fire Doesn't Burn Itself

Before his Spring Summer 14 show began, Hedi Slimane bathed the surroundings at the Grand Palais, a monumental ornate ceiling and sequence of speakers on scaffolding, in hot Rive Gauche pink.

Lining the catwalk were a series of LED boards on poles. They extended telescopically, arched and lit up: the backdrop of an arena became a boulevard. When the boys strutted, it was that moment of anticipation, consumed by their thoughts as they were about to take the stage.

They knew the feeling of course. Fletcher and Wyatt from The Garden, Zachary Cole Smith from DIIV (AW13 campaign star), Matthew Hitt of Drowners were among the cast from bands. London street-cast Jonathan Powell, who debuted last season, has even formed his own band since. That’s the holisticism of this story.

There was colour in the ‘tude, as hinted by Matt Connors’ artwork in the invite book. The flashes of glam within that noir frame made for a compelling tension. We got gold sequinned bretons and shawl collar tailoring, sequinned argyles, red leather jeans, zebra print and bandana bandit scarves. One set of the buckled boots came in that signature little-square pink from the inaugural label. The waists high, with hands perched.

Fire Doesn’t Burn Itself was the Sam Flax soundtrack, reworked for Saint Laurent. After last season’s Ty Segall shred – IT #3 still races through the brain, five months later – it was a glimmering slice of the glorious heart wrought. Wrap yourself in all of that next season.