Sacai this season gave the people what they wanted. Chitose Abe is good at that (it’s what she’s built her brand and designs on), but she make things that you want to keep for much longer than a season. And here, what worked strongest were the less demanding pieces.

With an attention to detail of space and form coming from Japanese traditionalism, and an aesthetic inspiration coming from somewhere more western (quite literally), one thing to note is the natural marriage of the two. It was the work of American artist Lawrence Weiner, a central figure in the 1960s conceptual art movement, from which Abe took inspiration from this season. Weiner’s work centres around the use of typographic texts, minimal in look but carrying strong and provocative messages. Here, that typography theme ran in both literal and more subtle interpretations, both with definite meanings and as abstract forms. The first looks on the runway featured the slogan ‘STATIS AS IN VECTOR ALL IN DUE COURSE’, a direct reference to Weiner’s work at his 2012 exhibition at London’s Lisson Gallery.

Highlights involved a workwear jacket set in deep teal, and fringed around the front and back yoke and shoulders, Wild West style. This “Americana” reimagined is an angle that Sacai is no stranger to. Rendering jackets of aran-knit, western mountain jackets with yoke contrasting made into a longer, lighter jacket layer. Billowy golden outdoor fabrics were translated into easy sports shirts, and a knife-pleat dress for women’s pre-collection, complete with khaki harness, rivets and drawstring implements. Sacai’s codes are steadfast, just like their supporters, which is more than a hint at this brand’s prowess.