- Text Tempe Nakiska
- 26th June 2014
You can rely on a Rick Owens show for a macabre display of theatrics, and yesterday at the Palais de Chaillot it was a dystopian sci-fi vision.
They emerged in metallic moonboots, these aliens of the dark. Some painted chalk white (fully, mind you), their heads bald, others’ hair drawn across faces and backlit by an eerie show light halo. The designer cited Nijinsky’s Ballets Russes debut in 1912 for L’Après-Midi d’un Faune, its wicked strain no doubt a highlight in Owens’ own design process this season.
Tunics were the order of the day, bound cross-body with leather harnesses and accented with angular zips. Painterly, distorted faces were cast across others, drawing a brilliantly disturbing likeness to Salvadore Dali’s ghostly Ant Face.
But perhaps the most striking element was the play off between restriction and freedom, present in asymmetric silhouettes strapped and released with effortless ebb and flow.