• Text  Dean Mayo Davies
  • Photography  Alexandre Sallé de Chou
  • 26th June 2013

Show business

Leave it to Raf Simons to take us half an hour outside Paris to an industrial estate – just like the old days.

His venue, the Gagosian Gallery, is not a casual visit. With its installations of $15 million dollar Alexander Calder mobiles and Jean Prouvé structures, this is a location where the other blacked-out Mercs, those of serious art collectors, turn up. And buy.

Simons talked of wanting to present in an environment with those whose artwork nourished him. It was the perfect backdrop for his new beat-soundtracked show – music has always given his work such context – with its pop art references (those YOGA prints) and proud youth spirit.

If there was a touch of Haçienda in those stripes, it was good Peter Saville was here to see it. A parade of nuances that have set Raf to where he is today, there were nevertheless new codes: jumpsuits and shorts had a skirt feeling and there were elongated vest dresses, you can thank his parallel position at Dior for that blur. Those looks weren’t styled with the plasticky rave boots but instead a solid slip-on loafer.

In the past, Raf Simons has presented brilliant collections called ‘The History of the World’ and ‘The History of My World’. If he’s stuck for a title with this collection, let us suggest The History of the Future. His future.