• Text  Dean Mayo Davies
  • Photography  Harry Carr
  • 24th June 2013

So hot

When Miuccia Prada puts out a collection that has a feeling of the dark and stormy, of course we’re going to like it. It was the mood of our seventh issue. AMO’s high-rise set was punctuated with graphic murals of exotic flowers, sunrises… and military helicopters.

What followed was a show that was – in the best way – sweaty and sensual, a love story in the tropics. It really began with exit seven, the first womenswear look. From then on Mrs Prada would send out three consecutively in well-punctuated blasts. To the point this felt more a womenswear show than men’s.

A cinematic study of power/powerlessness – it’s a (wo)man’s world – is her prerogative. And the reason this is the most awaited show of Milan. Prada is always beyond just stuff people want. It’s a think tank of sex, relationships, the human condition. The audience have their own tactile relationship with the set in this via Fogazzaro exhibition space. You must clamber across the landscape of colourful steps and bleachers to be seated. As soon as you do that, you’re open to her cause – and part of the performance.

When the designer took her bow, the applause was thunderous. This season Prada really turned up the heat.