Fashion
  • Text Jake Hall
  • 21st February 2020

Surreal Glamour

Miuccia Prada’s approach to glamour has always been unconventional. For more than three decades, the forward-thinking designer has been building on a blueprint rooted in fine art references, understated luxury and high-concept themes. FW20 stayed true to this distinctive vision, eschewing a fashion show seating chart in favour of a set created to “manifest the abstract energy of the public arena.” In practice, this saw guests ascend a staircase to overlook a fictional courtyard with bold, geometric lines and carefully-placed statues.

Built around the concept of ‘Surreal Glamour’, the collection itself was an ode to the strength of femininity. This was all about the power of sensuality, communicated visually through embellished, pastel-hued chiffons, whose high, ruffled necklines were wrapped delicately with strands of multiple necklaces.

Skirts had their hemlines deconstructed and split into strands, which crept up as models walked to reveal a flash of leg. Mesh baseball vests created a similar effect, worn over ribbed, brightly-coloured tights and teamed with equally bright, ankle-strapped sandals in a variety of shades. Even the spongey, sculptural outerwear was often nipped tightly at the waist, maintaining a classic hourglass silhouette. When proportions were blown-up, they were done so deliberately – like the fuzzy, brown shearling vest, whose hot pink overlay had an almost lacquered, iridescent sheen.

Prada also paid attention to sustainability, using technical fabrics made from recycled, post-consumer waste and waterproofed using carbon-free methods. It’s this eye for detail and engagement with new technologies that keeps the storied Italian house ahead of the curve, strengthening a versatile, enduring vision of femininity which transcends fashion’s seasonal calendar.