Fashion
  • Text Mark Felt
  • 8th January 2018

Ethical pulse

subtlety and nuance gave food for thought at Phoebe English’s FW18 presentation. Where in previous seasons the London-based designer has had her models doing laundry, clay sculpting and ironing, this season they were off-duty, stood beside racks of clothing – or “set within a cacophony of Phoebe English toiles,” as the show notes described.

A continued dedication to British fabrics has come to define English’s menswear, and this season perhaps more than ever. Manufacturing her entire collection in the UK, clothes were crafted in natural materials; dry waxed cotton came from British Millerain and knitwear courtesy of designer Helen Lawrence – from waffle knit jumpers employed in soft lambswool to chunky hats and scarves perfectly in tune with the bitter cold weather outside.

Consisting of eight looks, the capsule collection was a staple diet of wardrobe essentials. It was only upon closer inspection that the precision of English’s detail was revealed, it was there in the scalloped-edge trouser hems, transparent shirt buttons and long smock slips beneath full-length trench coats.