• Text Lisa Walden
  • Photography Tomas Turpie
  • 17th February 2018

for Wendy

Phoebe English kick-started the first day of London Fashion Week with a collection and ‘visual poem’ that payed a beautiful tribute to her family and mother – titled ‘different manifestations of loss’. English lost both her grandparents last year and the collection felt like a poignant commendation to those close to her (the show notes read “for Wendy”.)

She first teased the mood for the presentation via Instagram, uploading an image of weeping women and a remembrance photo of a man alongside flowers and the words ‘at rest’. Key words of the presentation were ‘absence’, ‘monochrome’ and ‘parts that are missing.’ These were translated through small slits on the shoulders of shirts, more cut-outs and black gently tailored garments that were layered on one another and quite accessible.

Elsewhere, there were classic takes on her usual wrapped tulle, velvet, layered mesh and tops with scalloped edges – reworking the little black dress. Though suffering with grief, English did what she does best: and it felt more powerful than ever.