Fashion
  • Text Cal Morris
  • 2nd March 2018

Future gazing

What is a Paco Rabanne show without a heightened sense of retro-futurism? Since his appointment in 2013, creative director Julien Dossena has injected a new sense of life into the iconic Parisian brand, remixing its archive with a palpable dose of the here and now.

Painting a 360 degree portrait of the brand’s past, present and future, this season the French designer plucked two reference points from that storied back catalogue: Audrey Hepburn’s mirrored shift from 1967 film Two For The Road, and Françoise Hardy’s iconic white chain-link top seen on the July 1967 cover of Elle France – an enduring image that runs through the Paco Rabanne DNA.

Inside a clean and minimal set, Dossena’s latest offering was allowed to shine. Quite literally in fact, as embroidered layers of crystal and pearlescent flowers created exquisite chain-mail pieces, like deconstructed chandeliers that would send the Studio 54 crowd wild – guaranteed. Clinking and jangling as each model walked past, these adjectives may sound awkward and clumsy, but here they signified quality, creating a palpable sense of fun. And paired with cowboy boots, or pool sliders? It’s a yes from us. 

Contrasting these intricacies with muted tones and neat Parisan staples such as Breton tees, peacoats, shearling and camisole tops, there was a balance that lended itself to the easy-living chanteuse, from morning through to evening – and then the morning after.