- Text Vincent Levy
- 19th January 2015
There was an armed forces air about more than a few shows at London Collections: Men, and the trend has re-emerged in Milan at Devon born designer Neil Barrett’s show. Coming from a family of military tailors, it’s fair to say his understanding gives him some authority over the genre. Enough authority to totally buck the more obvious interest in its rigours, and instead present elements of the aesthetic within a decidedly relaxed silhouette. Whilst still precise in their execution, garments felt distinctly de-canvased and at times almost cocooning in their comfort.
Key hybrid pieces including a Parka fused to a Crombie, and seemingly layered bomber and coat combinations that were actually one and the same, expressed a formal to casual transition most strongly. Knitwear formed an integral element of the collection’s easier feel. Whilst knitted fabrics allowed for more lightweight interpretations of brand staples including suiting, sweaters and outerwear, craft knit patterns from Fair Isles to Argyles and a Warholesque Kaboom graphic broke down the military theme’s intensity most effectively.