- Text Clemetine Zawadzki
- 18th January 2016
Thom Browne’s army was in full force at the Moncler Gamme Bleu FW16 show. Clad head to toe in green, red, blue and white camouflage, models wore balaclava-like masks and loosely woven beanies, matching face paint made sure not a single inch of skin was left bare.
Not dissimilar to previous collections, Browne’s stage presentation, and that of the collection, reflected Moncler’s signature adventure apparel. The label that recreated the Alpine slopes in 2009, and took us poolside in 2010, brought a gale of glitter to FW16. Positioned in the centre of the runway, models perched in waiting, encased in a tinted glass box as confetti fell from the ceiling to mimic a snow globe, with dramatic results.
It’s sportswear, but not as we know it. With a swirl repetition taking over the entire line, differences were found in the fabrics and the way they were paired and utilised. The manipulation of softer materials and shiny trimmings underlined the pliant nature of wears that seem intense or harsh at first glance. The hybrid of athletic sensibilities with more luxurious materials forged a fresh take – from printed leather to wool, through fur collars, to embellished sequins that shimmered like scales in the light. Here was camouflage designed to stand out, rather than fade in.