• Text Vincent Levy
  • 20th January 2015

Day at the races

Thom Browne’s latest piece of vintage sportswear inspiration for Moncler Gamme Bleu was the jockey, though you wouldn’t have known this from the shows rather austere opening sequence. Models trod out onto the runway – or should that be stage, given the specific effort to set the scene with a sparse forest of trees, in outfits that by Browne standards were shockingly minimal. Completely plain takes on the brand’s famous down filled jacket appeared on clusters of models, divided into beiges, greys and blacks. These were uniformly paired with white poppered ski pants, plain riding boots, simple goggles, and a kind of skull cap which seemed more monastic than anything you’d typically associate with sport’s most outlandishly dressed.

Fans of Browne’s usually more eccentric style can breathe a sigh of relief, as despite outlining some easy wardrobe additions, this set-up was essentially a dramatic device. Headed for the trees and gathering a few wolf whistles on their way, models quickly whipped off their outerwear to uncover body-conscious tailoring. In doing so, their jackets reversed to reveal bold harlequin and check motifs in golds, greys, and the brand’s signature tricolore. These patterns were directly echoed onto the freshly unveiled blazers, jodhpurs and matching neck-ties, maintaining the feeling of rival teams.