• Text Luisa Le Voguer Couyet
  • Photography Harry Clark
  • 12th January 2015

Nineties upscaled

The atmosphere at the Martine Rose FW15 presentation was lively and buzzing. This year, a collaboration with US creatives #BEENTRILL#, was notable by the embroidered tags on sweaters and t-shirts. Accompanying these were Martine Rose’s own inclusion of embroidered details such as ‘EXPECT PERFECTION’, which she later revealed had resulted from scouring past collections.

A lone model rotated on a plinth, while another sat nonchalantly on a sofa, reading the Financial Times. I asked him if he was actually reading it, turns out, he was. It felt relaxed, cool, with the exuberance of the early 90s. This notion was confirmed with soft long and short sleeved t-shirts boldly announcing the ‘90-91 Autumn Winter Collection’. Adorning the walls were photographs of each look, exposing the functionality of the pieces. It was fun and young, soft grey cotton sweaters and matching bottoms upscaled with smart, updated tailoring.

According to Rose, ‘Expect Perfection’ originated from a beer slogan and meant, ‘’everything and nothing at the same time’’, which perfectly surmised the ideology behind the collection. Past styles felt updated; clean shirts with tartan sleeves, spacey-silver trousers, and the coolest: leather pants that could change shape with the introduction of a zip!