• Text  Tempe Nakiska
  • 17th January 2015

Fitting, that Marni designer Consuelo Castiglioni should choose the pulsing broken beats of Panda Bear to accompany the house’s catwalk show at Pitti Uomo in Florence this week. Marni’s artful DNA is similarly patched, rewound and remixed, and it was that gleeful language we saw celebrated in the menswear collection – markedly, the first to charge the runway in five years.

Marni’s own creed is free spirited. This with that, founded in a certain creative energy that embraces the strength of classic tailoring whilst turning it energetically on its head. Polished, maybe. But never strict.

FW15 was all about the signature boxy tailoring that exemplifies Marni, with the addition of a deluge of quirky accents that puzzle together with eccentricity, just so. Knits and fur (alpaca, goat and sheepskin – never too much) prints and checks, the bookishness of double-breasted cuts and sharp edge of cigarette thin trousers. Hidden button closures and buttery blue suede.

Oh, and those suede tunics and sheepskin vests will be flying out doors – IRL and online – before you can spell ‘waitlist’. So, go on then.