• Text Lewis Firth
  • Photography Takanori Okuwaki
  • 12th January 2015

Neck warmer

Margaret Howell has led a quiet revolution in the name of minimal, British classicism for more than four decades now, and it’s collections like yesterday’s that will continue to embed her popularity throughout the next.

Subtlety and the small details are where it’s at for this designer: shirts were tucked in but not fully; pulled out to give volume. And the layering… Shoulder-fastened turtlenecks acted as a base, with crisp, white, cotton shirts placed over the top – with turtleneck collars peeping through – ready to support the sharp, tailored separates.

Loosely fitted suit jackets and three-quarter-length coats were subtly decorated in herringbone and large, Prince of Wales check patterns. A clear adoration to traditional craft and its signifiers. But this love of established craft didn’t end there. Cable-knit detailing and ribbing were present, with an Argyle pattern making a solo but memorable appearance mid-way through the show.

Clothes were predominantly achromatic. But pops of colour were thrown in – just enough – to break up the stricter looks. Like the bright orange socks and shirts and coral blue scarves – not quiet by any stretch, but welcome additions.