• Text  Dean Mayo Davies
  • 28th June 2013

Memory game

Maison Martin Margiela went back into the mind’s filing cabinet this season, crafting a collection exploring memories. Subtle, it was – but so is the starting point.

A blazer and bomber jacket revealed their construction, collars vanished and pockets were smothered. Thrifted or inherited velvet or devoré dresses were altered into waistcoats, scarves or sleeveless jackets. For the most potent image, a key was pressed into a piece of leather, leaving an imprint. The result worn as a necklace.

The haze of experience, with darts of lucidity continued on the soundtrack too. Cut-up sections of The Breeders’ Cannonball, Nirvana’s Smells Like Teen Spirit and Sonic Youth’s Kool Thing were played, sans vocals. And just when you were ready to sing along they disappeared.