Modern easy
Maison Martin Margiela, Fashion Show in Paris, Menswear Collection, Fall Winter 2014
Set in the HQ of the French Communist Party, Margiela’s modernist collection was well housed.
Garments had a casual ease with wide-legged trousers and baggy knit jumpers, but this attitude was mainly enforced through styling. Half-tucked shirts and crumpled cuffs conveyed had a laissez-faire tone, coats hanging from the shoulders gave a masculine backbone to the easiness. The closing look – a long black cape held together by the model’s own hands – epitomised the attitude.
But somehow, the opposite was also true. Coats and jackets fastened with buckles and straps seemed as though they could have been taken from a 1940s airplane uniform, both functional and decorative. Some of these straps held jackets together, whereas some extruaneous additions gave a restrictive sensation. Another jacket with conjoining panels and full body straps reinforced the airplane reference, resembling a parachute.
These sculptural elements were found elsewhere also, with long trench coats given a structural edge with seemingly detachable cross-body wraps.
The colour palette was mainly neutral tones: navy, camel, grey. This backdrop was punctuated by vibrant interjections of blue, covering lacquered panels on jackets and on v-neck jumpers.
GALLERYBackstage images from Maison Martin Margiela FW14
GALLERYCatwalk images from Maison Martin Margiela FW14