- Text Clementine Zawadzki
- 1st March 2018
Maison Margiela’s creative director John Galliano manifested a wonderland of his own in a topsy-turvy collection where everything was upside down, inside out and out of this world.
Less ‘stripping back’ and more ‘adding to’ this season, Galliano’s vision was once again an introspective look at the limits fashion can be pushed to and how boundaries only exist if we ourselves establish them. A coat under a dress? A jumper over a jacket? This spontaneous, accidental dressing was completely deliberate in this loopy-layered Margiela vision – a traverse universe where the unacceptable is deemed glamourous.
Transparent fabrics acted like a window to what’s beneath the surface – playful, but a deeper meaning can be found here also. Garments were interwoven and fused together at times; a herringbone blazer to fisherman’s knit, for example. The use of lightweight organza in the midst of classic fabrics such as twill and wool reinforced Margiela’s hybridisation, not only through its tactile features, but the way pieces were cut, placed and fitted. Heritage tones of monochrome and beige were thrown against bold blues, purples and a startling security yellow – a colour that featured quite prominently and worked to highlight the aim of the game Galliano was playing.
Holographic hues were taken from foil, flash-sensitive fabric and reflected in glittery makeup by Pat McGrath – a blend of the natural and exaggerated was even found here while models almost looked as if ready for combat in high-top sneakers and grandiose proportioned ensembles like mirrored ice hockey masks built for sci-fi warfare. When the world is becoming more absurd by the minute, who’s to say what’s right or wrong, or up or down, or just totally fucking fantastic.