• Text  Lewis Firth
  • Photography Takanori Okuwaki
  • 14th June 2015

Nineties update

Back in 1991 My Bloody Valentine released Loveless. The track Soon from the album blurted out while the first of Lou Dalton’s boys came walking down the catwalk, underpinning the entirety of her inspiration for SS16.

Reversion was key – as well as functionality, as always – in Dalton’s approach: more of a multifaceted execution – not a superficial one. Tradition directed her shapes, finishings and fabric choices, anchored in both the formal and informal tribes.

Take tailoring, for example, Dalton used a Prince of Wales check printed on technical fabrics, plastered across cargo pants and shorts that were zipped-up, locked-up and made in nylon and cotton mixes. Distorted madras-checks added a summery vibe, (one in a baby and sea blue and another in a peach and burnt orange) which dominated the collection: on shirts, shorts, trousers and a key piece, the Harrington jacket – all detailed with gusseted and zip-fastened pockets.

Now, the informal part, influenced by the Casuals: these were the football-mad lads from the 80s and 90s who had a weakness for labels – sporting labels. (Think Le Coq Sportif and a pair of Adidas Sambas.) Mix that with some tailoring technicalities and you have an oxymoronic, super-light vision that would manage to throw anyone back to the time of Casual Chaos and Late Night Raves.