• Text Lakeisha Goedluck
  • 27th September 2019

antique opulence

Staged at his usual Loewe show space, Maison de l’UNESCO, creative director Jonathan Anderson presented a collection steeped in antique opulence for SS20. A tale of two halves (and cities), this collection was a marriage of structural silhouettes and delicate construction intermixed with Victorian dress codes.

Lace dresses with pannier features signalled that this offering was to be a lesson in expert craftsmanship. On one end of the spectrum, an elegant two-piece made from marguerite lace finished in a ruffled collar that looked like doilies stacked atop one another. Floating white dresses were covered in dainty floral prints, while one off-white ensemble was finished with a christening-style bow at the waist. Conversely, sweeping cape dresses ballooned outwards and structural trench coats came in sombre greys and muted camels with statement collars for a bold, business-like feel.

Never one to skimp when it comes to accessories, Anderson unveiled crocheted belts and bra tops which were adorned with beads and pretty pearls. Bow-tie loafers felt sophisticated-yet-playful, while thigh-high buttermilk-coloured boots added a 70s edge. Additionally, this collection marked the debut of the new Balloon Bag – a bucket style made from either calfskin, crochet raffia or staple canvas that’s already highly coveted. Again, Anderson proved his ability to look to the past to instigate a constantly evolving future for Loewe.