• Text Lisa Walden
  • 4th March 2018

pensive space

Set inside the Maison de l’Unesco in the heart of Paris, this season’s Loewe show space was decked out with a soft white carpet, Neo-Dada sculptures of the Japanese artist Tetsumi Kudo, a fireplace designed by E.W. Godwin and beautiful, ornate furnishings. The room provided a homely and stripped-back stage for Jonathan Anderson’s mise en scène.

Extraordinary variety came in the form of wool jersey, buttery soft leathers, silk jacquard fabrics (with matching checked bags), sharp tailoring and luxurious outerwear with slick finishings that gleamed, while leather was also a mainstay – staying close to the brand’s tradition. 

Elsewhere, there were neat tweed jackets (some buttoned to the top, others left open) and long coats appeared with small satin bras sewn on the outside and hems cut to different proportions. It was all very well polished: from plush shearling fabrics to soft smock trousers.

Those on the guest list each received one of five hardcover novels of classic literature published exclusively by Loewe. Among the collection was Emily Brönte’s Wuthering Heights, Heart of Darkness by Joseph Conran and Dracula by Bram Stoker — each printed in its native language and wonderfully wrapped up in a cover from past Steven Meisel Fashion Stories. It was as if Anderson was prompting guests to take a pause from the buzz of fashion week, slow down, and lose themselves in escapism – while the designer’s own narrative continues to stir.