• Text Tempe Nakiska
  • 24th January 2015

In his second seasonal outing as creative head at Loewe, JW Anderson builds on his leitmotif-normality, a continuing dialogue between clothing and the wearer. It’s a balance precisely enacted – a play off between this exploration, the Loewe heritage and his vision for the house’s future.

For FW15, Anderson takes a stronghold on outerwear: shearling lined peacoats and duffles in cornflower blue and caramel, and a navy suede trench made out of hardwearing skins normally reserved for bags. Reworking to morph anew: napa is treated to feel like linen, a lattice of calf over canvas used in briefcases, python is paralleled unexpectedly with cotton, mohair brushed and brushed for extra tactile goodness.

The signature Anderson wide legged trouser is run with a vertical stripe and balanced with boxy, cropped jackets in favour of an eccentric take on a classic silhouette. The Anderson bent for quirk fused with the Loewe sumptuosity of treatment and tone (marine and saffron feel equally luxurious) – a pairing that will continue to draw attention as the seasons progress.