• Text Tempe Nakiska
  • 29th June 2014

Raw cuts now

The neck and collarbones were largely the focal point here. Silk neck scarves, rudeboy thin ties and chains were styled over shirting, drawing attention to an area that’s indisputably sensual. That’s the joy of Lanvin menswear: in an industry flanked by restrictive tradition, Alber Elbaz and Lucas Ossendrijver are working to give men back the expressive provocation they deserve.

Their mix of tailoring and techno is crisp, sophisticated and oft bohemian, affording their audience a wardrobe high in quality but lacking in stiffness. Here that was apparent in generously cut suiting, thrice layered with loose shirting and knits, loose trousers worn with leather sandals adding a sense of the artisan.

But it was the raw touches that made it. A crisp white coat had its sleeves slashed off, while loose threads dangled from the seams of a chalky biker vest. Towards the end of the show, silk shirting was crumpled and layered under crisp white and rose tux jackets.

The impression of a haphazard home job? Not quite, but the vivacity one puts into such an endeavor was present. It was livening, clever and sexy. That’s exactly what we look for in a Lanvin collection and it’s even better every time.