- Text Dean Mayo Davies
- 30th June 2013
A touch of class
There were no digital prints in the Lanvin collection: Lucas Ossendrijver and Alber Elbaz are too dapper for that. Thank god someone is, it’s quickly become an industry shortcut to churning out a collection. And we are bored of it.
It’s why the house of Lanvin goes from strength to strength, a sophisticated conflation of techno and luxury, tailoring and sportswear, combined into a vision that never looses sight of savoir faire.
At the École nationale supérieure des Beaux-Arts, Ossendrijver offered both fitted and fuller jackets to go with a new, knitted take on Oxford Bags, inspired by the humble tracksuit bottom. Giving a flawless ease, a notion of the provocative was injected elsewhere through short – and we mean short – shorts. The effect was most extreme under a long, fluid coat.
That’s the complexity of men today, for decades we’ve been stripped of the right to be mysterious or play with notions of sensuality as well as look smart and masculine. Lanvin gives the keys to expression in a clever way. It’s the reason why this story runs and runs.