Fashion
  • Text Alex James Taylor
  • Photography Benjamin Whitley
  • 13th June 2016

gagged and bound

By the Sunday evening of LCM, legs start to tire, heads start to lower and stomachs start to pine for that dreamy roast dinner. Thankfully KTZ creative Director Marjan Pejoski always provides the perfect remedy: with levels permanently set to ‘full throttle’, his shows never fail to kickstart those flatlining pulses.

This season Pejoski looked to the stars for inspiration, however his SS17 man was no celestial being. Clad in PVC, leather and nylon, models walked straight out of Berlin’s underground rave scene and into the show venue under the brick arches of the Invicta Plaza – normally home to the club Pulse, these outfits are dress code certified. Harnessed and chained, fetishism styling was bold and heavy – like Tarantino’s Pulp Fiction gimp and He-Man should they ever get lost in Berghain together.

As the pulsating beat of Berlin producer Pantha du Prince began to evolve, so to did the collection. Complex sequinned, beaded and crystal constellations took form on a glimmering ‘star man’ tunic and an epic hooded sheer cape – closing the show, worn by the only female model. Cut-outs featured throughout, from stars on bomber jackets and skirts to exposed circular knees holes, as deconstructed pieces revealed glimpses of flesh.

Dubbed in the show notes as “Dark Futurism” the latest KTZ incarnation stayed true to the brand’s masculine aesthetic with an added dose of sci-fi S&M – warning, innocent childhood memories may be tainted.