- Text Jake Hall
- Photography Simon Lesley
- 14th September 2019
A pair of towering sculptures, created by British artist Rosie Grace Ward, greeted guests when they stepped into Kiko Kostadinov’s SS20 show. Creative directors Deanna and Laura Fanning had chosen these sculptures not just for their beauty, but for what they represented; something divine, spiritual and otherworldly. More specifically, the designers delved into a research wormhole which began with Greek goddess Urania and took them to the idea of the circle as something elevated, a “celestial leitmotif.”
This research led to spiritual symbols permeating the collection. Dresses had circular cutouts at the shoulders, partially filled by woven metallic threads that resembled amulets, or talismans; twisted horns and spirals recurred as motifs on jewelry and accessories; diaphanous midi dresses were spliced with twisted, circular patterns, and one particular look took design cues from the Chinese yin and yang symbols.
Nestled amongst these more psychedelic looks was a series of deconstructed sportswear, a nod to Kiko’s ongoing partnership with Japanese brand Asics. Polo shirts were brilliantly pulled apart, twisted and wrapped into full-length dresses, whereas tracksuits bore geometric patterns which clashed dark fabrics with carefully-placed splashes of bold color – providing the highlights of a collection which further solidified the Fanning sisters’ vision for Kiko’s womenswear.