- Text Sara Semic
- Photography Federica Tenti
- 14th February 2020
For Kiko Kostadinov SS20, designers and twin sisters Laura and Deanna Fanning were pondering how we perceive a garment’s dimensions and shape in an age where clothes are consumed predominantly via screens. “We’re always being presented with clothing in a 2D way and even when we shop, we shop online,” the sisters explained backstage, “So we were thinking about how we could build texture in photographs as well as in motion, and how we could skew everyday pieces like a slip dress or a striped jumper in a textural sense.”
The resulting collection was a sartorial study in texture and dimension. Rendered in a palette that veered from burnt orange to cobalt blue, garments were pinched and pulled to new proportions, mirrored sonically by a soundtrack of distorted industrial music. Everyday garments such as slip dresses were transmogrified using smocking techniques to drape amorphously around the body, and striped merino wool vests and v-necks were puckered to create a jaggedy surface.
Elsewhere, tailored trousers were spliced with diamond panels that played on the idea of flattening a point to 2D form, while checked houndstooth jackets were panelled with swirls of pillarbox red faux fur, resembling the swirl of the vortex motif printed on the show invites and blown up to form the backdrop of the set.