• Text Lewis Firth
  • Photography ALEXANDRE SALLÉ DE CHOU
  • 28th June 2015

Space age

An air of serenity transpired through Carol Lim and Humberto Leon’s SS16 collection, a leap away from Kenzo’s symbol-heavy, acidic-coloured offering from last season. Keeping things fresh is something these two have perfected. And where last season they took us to the recently renovated Philharmonie de Paris, this time Etienne Russo was employed to create a set of sand, basalt and sliced rocks that revealed glimmering interiors. Behold! An interplanetary atmosphere that perfectly underscored the clothes.

Functional drawstrings acted as a self-controllable detail, gathering fabric on sleeves and torsos. Inspiration? Parachutes. Oh – there it was in the ‘ Pull’ tag lines that exclaimed their way across jumpers. Elsewhere, trousers were given elasticated waists and jumpsuits and coats belted with safety-buckles.

Martian-like shapes descended mid-collection with jumpers and joggers woven with spikes in the fabric. And most colours were earth-toned, with the odd emerald green and fuscia pink making sharp, short appearances to remind everyone that the eccentricity that Kenzo Takada founded his label on still lives strong – just a few light years from where it started. Off to the planets we go.