• 9th January 2014

Severe strength

Jonathan Anderson likes nothing more than to bend our minds. This season saw another one of his games take the traditional menswear silhouette and turn it on its baffled crew cut.

Whereas SS14 was about reveal and restraint in a play of blurred gender lines, FW14 threw a little more severity into the mix.

There were still the telltale signs of the female silhouette in the form of bare necklines, crop knits and asymmetrical ponchos. But there was also a strength: high rise pants, forceful shoulders across blooming silk two-pieces and those squared tunics Anderson is becoming renowned for.

He’s a designer rooted in androgyny – that is, androgyny of the most twisted type. It’s the kind of gender bending that makes you look twice, not for shock but for its all-devouring sexuality.