• Text Clementine Zawadzki
  • Photography Virginie Khateeb
  • 26th June 2015

Expressionism

Julien David’s SS16 certainly left an impression, or expression in fact. Models were sent down the runway with their heads shrouded in sheer black fabric, façades embellished with black and white piping creating over exaggerated expressions, funny, evil, worry, king, and serene.

Even with the more downbeat facial expressions adorning the model’s faces the fun was never astray. Take the cartoonish jumpsuit for instance, or the quirky vibrant prints, named “mutant daisies” by the designer.

Never one to sit on his laurels Julien David threw his own take on suits into the mix, crinkled and crumpled they were steamed twice to the point they almost looked 3D, altered in texture yet retaining their sharp silhouettes. Julien David is fond of a slight trick of the eye, none more so than a couple of seasons back when he collaborated with Quiksilver on a collection of trompe l’oeil wet-suits, (hyphenated for a reason, think neoprene tailoring).

Expression of mind was key to the narrative. Anonymity is a great leveller in life, and on the catwalk it allows the clothes to do all the talking.