• Text Vincent Levy
  • 20th January 2015

Freewheelin'

The significance of music in John Varvatos’ work needn’t be elaborated upon. From the gamut of stars that have featured in his ad campaigns for the past decade, to his publishing of John Varvatos: Rock in Fashion, it’s there for all to see. Which is perhaps why the designer’s approach for Autumn/Winter 15 felt less sing-it-from-the-rooftops, and a little more reflective. Inspired by Richard Avedon’s image of a young Bob Dylan in Central Park, models trod out onto a runway drowned in crisp autumnal leaves. It’s easy to imagine designers taking a more inward approach to their winter collections, but with Varvatos, who happens to live opposite Central Park, this felt accurate.

The concept for this collection seemed to have been brewing for some time, resulting in a more tentative and therefore elegant feeling. In a palette heavy with blacks, charcoals, chocolate, wine and tobacco, there was the idea of a man more content with residing in the shadows. But saying that, still a good few dandified rock and roll moments in outfits accessorising, including leopard print bags and top hats, that suggested he was somehow still poised for his moment in the spotlight.