Fashion
  • Text Alex James Taylor
  • 19th June 2016

Under control

Now in his third season as creative director, Rodolfo Paglialunga continues to appease Sander purists with his SS17 offering – a fiercely controlled minimalist composition.

As a the blueprint for modern dressing, the Jil Sander DNA holds a fluidity that allows subtle movement in tune within articulated codes. And that fluidity was echoed in the sleek yet versatile silhouettes. Those FW16 military themes and fetishistic straps were stripped back to make room for a brighter, cleaner aesthetic.

Hair straight, wet and slicked back, this new wave crowd walked in lightweight trenches, macs and tailoring – cut as sharp as the cheekbones on their owner – whilst lightweight singles and luxe knits added soft charm. Whilst dominated by monochrome and neutral tones, the collection was punctuated by degrade effects and subtle, unfocused floral prints. Fiercely controlled to the point of ominous, here is the sort of neurotic precision Patrick Bateman or Gordon Gekko would flash their American Express Platinum towards.

This band of clean cut neutrals walked to a very old-school Sander beat, utilitarian clothing for the OCD man – not advised for the messy eaters. Thankfully, the Jil Sander man is a ‘salad and sparkling water for lunch’ kind of guy.