Fashion
  • Text Jake Hall
  • Photography Emily Malan
  • 20th February 2020

Purity/duality

Since taking the reins at Jil Sander back in 2017, husband-and-wife design duo Lucie and Luke Meier have ushered the fabled house, known for its pioneering vision of 90s minimalism, into a new era. House signatures – fluid silhouettes, muted colour palettes, a fusion of masculine tailoring and feminine lightness – remain intact, yet updated and subtly reworked by the couple.

A masterclass in juxtaposition, this season saw plissé cocktail dresses teamed with sleeveless, single-breasted suit jackets. Structural knitwear added weight to semi-sheer, pleated maxi skirts, and silhouettes generally teamed voluminous sleeves with tightly-nipped waists and statement, oversized bags.

It was a clear, cohesive vision of architectural proportions and slick, pared-back design. Even the collection’s more high-octane moments – the fringed, floor-length dresses, the fuzzy, wraparound capes – came in muted colour palettes, making them feel like timeless wardrobe staples.