• Text Laurie Trueman
  • 4th October 2016

Birds on acid

Paris’ Theatre National de Chaillot is an apt setting for a designer as theatrical as Haider Ackermann. Here, punctuated by the Eiffel tower in the distance, the Colombia-born designer showed his latest reveal.

Titled “Birds Of Paradise On Acid,” the collection spun out a vibrant colour palette. Slinky dresses came in avocado gold, teal and orange, whilst pleated skirts were cast in pinks, yellows, whites and a particularly killer leopard print one. Thin silk scarves (à la Keith Richards) trailed models like delicate feathers. Expanding his usual direction of acute tailoring and unconventional construction – traits that will come in handy for his new position at Berluti – Ackermann drew sharp lines through sharp silhouettes that extended to the spiked wigs worn by models.

To the sound of heavy breathing the girl’s walked down the runway, creating a sinister atmosphere that only increased when one model stepped out in red paint splashed outerwear, like Patrick Bateman on a spree.

Slogans such as ‘Be You’ and ‘Silent Soldier’ interspersed the collection, an immediate message from Ackermann himself – these clothes are for the self-assured, strong and ready.