• Text Tempe Nakiska
  • 15th January 2014

Jewel essence

Yesterday saw Haider Ackermann present his second full menswear collection in Paris. SS14’s full debut (he presented a snippet of menswear back in 2011, also for Spring Summer) was a tough act to follow, but follow – and fly the coop – he did.

A step sideways, the designer expanded upon his jewel-toned, deconstructed code to form a beautifully solid and wearable collection. The signature drop crotch pants were still rife, but here transformed entirely with wool and monochrome silk incarnations. Outerwear was short and layered to form intriguing silhouettes, or floor length. As is Ackermann’s style, the latter seemed purely made for a mesmerising entrance and theatrical departure.

The one women’s look physicalised the consistent versatility of Ackermann’s hand, the dropped pants appearing here with a belted, wide-sleeved jacket and tucked scarf. But it’s the inherent essence of Ackermann himself that continues to drive his name on and upward.