• Text Daniel Challis
  • 23rd January 2015

Laced up

The sophomore album is always tricky, especially if your chart happens to be the opening day of Paris Menswear. For Russian wonder boy Gosha Rubchinskiy however this triumphant return cemented further his position as just that. Designer-come-photographer-come-art director, Gosha sets the stage below a huge stained glass window where he yet again brings his ex-Soviet youth culture aesthetic to his hybrid streetwear. Combining shearling, fur and parka jackets with hooded jerseys, pulled up sweat pants and tees this collection feels much more refined than what he gave us last season, at base, simply because the word ‘sport’ is emblazoned across almost every look – in Cyrillic and Mandarin.

The tongue-in-cheek humour of the gesture is trodden in deeper, coming into focus as a third of Gosha’s boys is sent out wearing an appropriated Tommy Hilfiger logo constructed via the merging of the Russian Federation’s and the PRC’s flags. Styled with bootlace belts and the signature Gosha sock pulled up over trousers (here echoing 3-for-1 value packs) this collection reminds us that Russia, discounting its political elite, presents the West with a fresh realm of cultural critique that is exciting and necessary – a conversation printed brilliantly on the humble t-shirt.