• Text Lewis Firth
  • 27th January 2015

Luminosity

Swathes of red glitter – as much to create an entire runway. You can never really have too much. Models’ faces were decorated with meticulousness by Pat McGrath: embellished similarly to the catwalk, but with the addition of shells, sequins and gems. A creative extravagance – one that’s associated with Riccardo Tisci and what he’s achieved at Givenchy in the last decade.

Vertically pinstriped suiting and coats – in white and red – came out first, with the colours repeated in horizontal stripes on some. Skirts with large button fastenings were present too. Badges added detail: crosses, a Sheriff’s star and large safety pins. With the colours and prints thrown in, it was a punk, circus twist – dark and playful.

Details and colours became more conspicuous: bright red strips decorated the edges of coats and shirts, creating a border-like effect.

Like last season, sexual ambiguity came into play, but not as overtly. Gypsophila was a flower used generously in Spring’s looks, giving it a feminine touch. This time, glimmering embellishments delivered said effect.

The Aztec print dominated garments – some plain, some scintillated from sequins: shirts, trousers, coats and jackets all had it. Quite interestingly, some of these prints looked dissolved, in parts, and in others they were manipulated: showing flesh on dresses, and sometimes looking like it was “dipped” into a bucket of black sequins; a sort of animated darkness that was slowly consuming the garments. But never a pessimistic characteristic: one that Tisci has always admitted to be a lover of; he sees serenity in it. Ten years may have gone by, but his sinister imagination continues to feel as uplifting and fresh as ever.