- Text Lukas Grout
- Photography Nicolo Bagnati
- 23rd June 2016
Armani is a house famed for its tailoring expertise, so you can be sure to expect a strong suiting theme at any given show. But the SS17 collection encouraged us to walk right in, sit down… relax.
Unstructured blazers and wide legged, darted trousers conjured a feeling of the Italian men of Capri in the 60s. Equally the collection felt reminiscent of the undone tailoring with which Giorgio Armani revolutionised men’s fashion in America in the 70s, that same silhouette that went on to catalyse the culture of Hollywood dressing. (Think Richard Gere in American Gigolo  and the t-shirt under suit look made famous in Miami Vice).
Although this was very much the feeling throughout, each otherwise classical look was modernised with a nylon satchel, leather backpack or luxe sneaker. Knit pieces ruled the collection, sneaking into almost every ensemble – either as a wide-necked open collar polo or a loosely fitting cardigan, all in a cool selection of blues and greys. The pieces were not without print though, with various executions of glazed tile patterns which were featured on blazers, knits and accessories.
As the show progressed, unstructured cuts filtered away to reveal more rigid pieces formed with thicker wools and tweeds, going on to finish with the ultimate Armani look – the navy suit.